History Of Vintage and How it Changes in Time

What's Vintage? When was it born?

The history of Vintage begins in the second half of the 20th century as a movement whose goalis to give clothing lines at least 20 years old a new life, appreciating the style and tailoring of classic brands.

In the 1940s many governments, among which the British government, imposed a food and fabrics rationing in order to reduce the usage of materials for the making of clothes. Recycling was encouraged and the employment of decorative elements to embellish clothes became illegal. Sleeves and skirts grew shorter and shorter, jewelry was made out of cork and shoes were crocheted with raffia and wood due to a lack of leather.

This movement was born in the post-war period, when adolescentsbegan to feel the need to stand out and have their own style of clothing and the freedom of expression that the war took away from them.

The change of Vintage over time

Vintage outfits have undergone many changes over time, due to the numerous changes in the world over the last 70 years.

In the post-war period the textile industry sustained an exponential growth because of the rise of demand for clothes, which there was a lack of during the war; a wind of change could be sensed along with a desire to stick out and a need for a better quality of life. These events laid the basis for the emergence and re-emergence of many long-lasting brands whose vintage clothes are very rare and sought to this day.

The history of Vintage in the 50's

The precursors of Vintage were the fifties’ adolescents. They weren’t as strictly devoted to work or study as their parents and, through fashion, music, philosophy and literature, gave birth to revolutionary socio-cultural movements.

Paris was one of the first hubs in the history of vintage thanks to the Paris Existentialists They were a heterogeneous group, but what brought them together was the vision of human existence as an occasion for reflection: they opposed the discontent and the economic crisis of the post-war, particularly in Germany and France, displaying mostly irrational behaviour. They didn’t work and as a consequence, the first Vintage marketplaces, selling used clothes and books, were born.

The 60's

The 60’s were crucial years for the boom of the vintage and saw the Hippiesas protagonists. They were a movement of “rebels” and non-conformists that came to life in post-war America to rebel against those adults who created unrest and socio-economic issues. The Hippies were anti-consumerists and felt the need to express themselves through their outfits, so they began to customise their clothes following their own style. They set up the spreading of garments that were to become iconic for the history of Vintage and not only, such as flared jeans, low-rise jeans and bandanas.

Coincidentally, other cultures came to life The Rockculture, characterised by leather jackets, boots and jeans and the Modculture with its foulards, turtleneck sweaters, coloured jewellery and mini-skirts. The need to separate oneself began to shape the look of people, giving for the first time a proper meaning to the word “style”.

During all these changes, the first Vintage store got into business: it was in New York and sold second-hand clothing. In the meantime, in Resina, (today’s Ercolano) a town in Campania, another Vintage marketplace arose that still exists to this day. Its origins date back to 1943, when upon arrival of the Allied Forces, the citizens were able to steal parachutes, fabrics and clothes and then used it to manufacture undergarments. This started a trend, so much so that they began buying closed trunks coming from America, which contained workwear and second hand clothes. Only in 1965, when the Aliied Forces left Naples, did the citizens of Resina create an actual marketplace called “mercatin ‘r’e’ pezz ‘american” (American rags markeplace).

The 70’s: a turning point in the history of Vintage

The 70’s are viewed as an extension of the previous decade and the meaning of vintage changes. It is no longer an opportunity to get dressed for poor people, it has becomes a more and more popular trend not only among Hippies, but among common people as well.

Other cultures arise such as Punk, which celebrates “the aesthetics of the ugly” , while the word “style” increasingly moulds itself; to wear a certain kind of glasses or another could indicate certain political affiliations.

In the mid 70's long skirts and platform shoes (that came back onto the catwalks in 2021) step into the limelight. T-shirts aren’t mere undergarments any longer, and are now an integral part of anybody's look. The accessories celebrated the style of India and Native Americans: feathers, Indian necklaces, Mexican silver, bead necklaces and turbans.

The 80's

In the eighties virtually everyone has awareness of the chance to create an individual style. Fashion begins to gain a foothold in a very radical and personal manner and in fact, the styles in these years were very varied. At the end of the 80’s the stylist drew inspiration from the clothes of the 40’s and 50’s, giving strength to the perception of Vintage clothes, that were perceived as being of an excellent quality and had grown increasingly rare and refined.

From the 90's to our days

In the 90’s, the Vintage stops being an anticonformist and anticonsumerist branch of fashion, and starts being a trend that will ultimately manage to arrive to our days.

Young people would wear the iconic Levi’s jeans that were to become a timeless culture. It’s the difference in thickness and the fit that separate vintage jeans from today’s jeans. Oversized shirts, t-shirts tucked into the trousers, crop top shirts, bomber jackets, combat boots, diamond shape patterns, track suits and small, round glasses completed the look.

In recent years, cities are seeing a rise of vintage marketplaces, where clothes and antique objects such as furniture items, chinaand jewelleryare sold. Brick and mortar shops selling vintage clothes also spring up, as well as brands which combine old school and new elements, giving life to a never endind recycle. In addition, in the first half of the 21st century, the Vintage has begun to be a powerful tool against pollution, a problem which has been getting worse over the years

We at Annodobelieve in vintage clothing and we aim to spread it especially among those who don't know it, informing them on its history and offering higher quality garments compared to many of today's brands.